WRENCHPIT
2018 · Honda Accord · Brake bleedCV · 2018–2022· 10th gen

2013-2022 Honda Accord two-person brake bleed procedure

wrenchpitMaster TechAug 14, 2026
TIME
1h

Tools

  • 10mm box-end wrench (for the bleed screws)
  • Clear vinyl bleed hose, 4 ft length, 3/16 inch inner diameter
  • Clean glass jar or catch bottle (a plastic soda bottle works)
  • New Honda DOT 3 brake fluid, 32 oz (Genuine Honda 08798-9008 or Prestone Max DOT 3, Motul DOT 4 acceptable)
  • Turkey baster or hand siphon (for pulling old fluid from the reservoir)
  • Nitrile gloves and safety glasses (brake fluid strips paint on contact and burns eyes)
  • Torque wrench that covers 5 to 15 ft lbs
  • Two floor jacks or jack stands rated 3 tons minimum
  • Wheel chocks
  • Absorbent rags and a spray bottle of water (for immediate wash-off of fluid drips)
  • A helper (essential for the two-person method)

Parts

  • Brake fluid - Honda DOT 3 08798-9008 (Prestone Max DOT 3, Valvoline DOT 3, or Motul DOT 4 acceptable - do not mix with DOT 5 silicone)
  • Bleed screw cap (rubber caps that fit over the bleeder nipple, 4 pack - Dorman 13970 or equivalent)

Steps

01Understand when a bleed is required

A brake bleed is required after any component that opens the hydraulic system is replaced or serviced: caliper replacement, brake hose replacement, master cylinder replacement, or ABS module service. A bleed is also indicated by a spongy pedal, a pedal that sinks to the floor with steady foot pressure, or a low fluid level with no external leak. A firm pedal that stays firm does not need a bleed just because "the fluid looks dark" - a full fluid flush is a different procedure that pushes new fluid through the entire system.

The 2013-2022 Honda Accord has ABS on all trims and a standard four-wheel disc brake system. The bleed sequence is furthest-from-master-cylinder first: right rear, left rear, right front, left front. This sequence assumes a healthy ABS module - if the ABS has been serviced or the pump has run dry, an ABS-scan bleed procedure via HDS or an equivalent scan tool is required to fully purge the ABS block, and the two-person manual procedure below is insufficient.

02Prep the reservoir

Open the hood. The brake fluid reservoir sits at the rear driver's side of the engine bay, mounted to the master cylinder. Wipe the reservoir cap and the surrounding area clean before opening. Any dirt that falls into the reservoir goes straight into the ABS block and can foul the solenoid valves. Remove the cap and use the turkey baster to draw out the old fluid down to the minimum mark. Do not empty the reservoir - running the master cylinder dry pulls air into the system and dramatically extends the bleed procedure. Top up with fresh DOT 3 to the MAX mark. Brake fluid absorbs water from the air. The bottle of fluid should be freshly opened for this job; a jug that has been open in the garage for a year has already absorbed enough moisture to defeat the point of bleeding.

03Lift the vehicle and remove all four wheels

Chock the wheels, lift the vehicle at the factory jacking points, and support on jack stands at all four corners. Remove all four wheels for full access to each caliper bleed screw. On the Accord the bleed screw is at the top of each caliper, covered by a small rubber dust cap. Pull the caps off and set them aside. Do not skip the wheel removal for the rears - the parking brake apply cable on 2018-2022 Accord Sport and Touring trims uses the same caliper body and access to the bleed screw with the wheel on is essentially impossible.

04Start at the right rear

Fit the 10mm box wrench over the right rear bleed screw. Push the vinyl hose over the bleed screw nipple and drop the other end of the hose into the catch jar with enough hose to loop below the fluid level in the jar. The loop is important - it prevents air from being sucked back up the hose into the caliper as the pedal releases.

Communicate the sequence with the helper before starting. Standard call and response:

  • Helper: "Down" (as they press the pedal firmly to the floor)
  • Bleeder: "Open" (as the bleed screw is cracked a quarter turn and fluid runs out)
  • Bleeder: "Close" (as the screw is tightened again)
  • Helper: "Up" (as the pedal is released)

Never let the helper release the pedal while the bleed screw is open - releasing with the screw open sucks air back into the caliper and ruins the bleed. Repeat the cycle six to ten times per corner or until the fluid running out is clear and free of bubbles. Check the reservoir level after every three cycles and top up to prevent running dry.

05Move to the left rear

Torque the right rear bleed screw to 7 ft lbs (10 Nm). Verify against your service manual. Move to the left rear and repeat the same six to ten cycle sequence. Watch fluid color as it runs through the hose - old dark fluid gives way to clean amber fluid, which is the signal to move on.

06Move to the right front

Torque the left rear bleed screw to 7 ft lbs (10 Nm). Verify against your service manual. Move to the right front caliper. The front bleed screw is on the top of the caliper next to the brake hose fitting. Same sequence, six to ten cycles.

07Finish at the left front

Torque the right front bleed screw to 7 ft lbs (10 Nm). Verify against your service manual. Move to the left front. Same sequence, six to ten cycles. This is the corner closest to the master cylinder and typically requires the fewest cycles to run clean.

Torque the left front bleed screw to 7 ft lbs (10 Nm). Verify against your service manual.

08Top up the reservoir and check pedal feel

Top up the reservoir to the MAX mark. Refit the reservoir cap firmly. Have the helper press the brake pedal firmly several times with the engine off. The pedal should build to a firm high stop within two pumps. If the pedal sinks slowly with steady pressure, the master cylinder has an internal bypass and needs replacement - bleeding will not fix this. If the pedal is spongy, air is still in the system and the bleed sequence must be repeated.

09Reinstall wheels and test drive

Reinstall each wheel and start each lug nut by hand two turns. Snug in a star pattern. Lower the vehicle. Torque the Accord wheel lug nuts to 80 ft lbs (108 Nm). Verify against your service manual.

Test drive at low speed in an empty area first. Perform three moderate stops from 25 mph. Confirm the pedal remains firm and the vehicle stops straight. Progress to a stop from 45 mph. If the pedal loses firmness or the ABS activates unexpectedly, air is still trapped in the system, most likely in the ABS module, and a scan-tool bleed is required.

Notes

Reference guide. A general procedure compiled by Wrenchpit, not a first-hand write-up from one owner's vehicle. Torque figures, capacities and part numbers vary by model year, engine and trim — check them against your service manual and the labels on your old parts before you rely on them.

Applies to roughly 2013-2022 model years. Filed under 2018 because a guide carries a single model year.

The two-person manual bleed is the classic procedure and works reliably on the 2013-2022 Accord as long as the ABS module has not been fully drained of fluid. For any bleed following ABS pump replacement, ABS module replacement, or a complete brake system flush that drew air into the ABS block, a scan tool with Honda-specific ABS bleed function (HDS or the paid tier of iCarsoft HND V3.0) is required - the ABS solenoid valves must be cycled by the scan tool to purge trapped air, and the manual bleed cannot do this.

This procedure works on any modern car with a conventional four-wheel disc hydraulic brake system - Camry, Civic, Accord, Corolla, Altima, Sonata, Elantra, Fusion, Malibu, Impreza, Legacy, and virtually every mainstream sedan and crossover from the last 20 years follow the same right-rear-first sequence. Trucks with rear drum brakes (some F-150 base trims through 2014) reverse the drum-side sequence but keep the furthest-from-master-cylinder-first principle. Vehicles with dual-diagonal master cylinder split (many European and some Japanese) may use a different sequence per the service manual - check before starting.

Skip the "vacuum bleeder" and "pressure bleeder" alternatives if the two-person manual method is available. Both work but introduce failure modes: vacuum bleeders pull air through the bleed screw threads (fix with a wrap of teflon tape on the bleeder threads), and pressure bleeders over-pressurize the reservoir if the cap adapter does not seat perfectly (fix with a genuine adapter for the specific reservoir). A helper with a firm pedal and clear communication is the most reliable method for a garage DIY.

Brake fluid boils at temperatures the caliper reaches during aggressive braking - fresh DOT 3 boils at 401 F wet, older contaminated DOT 3 as low as 300 F. Boiled fluid creates vapor bubbles that compress under pedal pressure and produce a soft pedal that fades away. This is why the two-year interval matters more than the fluid appearance - moisture absorbed from the air lowers the boil point steadily even in fluid that still looks clean. Test fluid with a moisture-content strip (Phoenix Systems Brake Bleeder Fluid Test Strips or equivalent) if the flush interval is unknown.

Do not reuse the fluid caught in the jar for any purpose. Contaminated brake fluid is disposed of at any auto parts store's fluid recycling counter, alongside used motor oil. Do not pour it on the ground or down a drain - brake fluid is toxic to fish and persistent in soil.

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