2009-2021 Nissan GT-R (R35) VR38DETT oil and filter change
Tools
- 3/8 inch drive ratchet
- 14mm socket for the drain plug
- Oil filter wrench compatible with the OEM cartridge canister
- Torque wrench that covers 15 to 45 ft lbs
- Two-post lift, drive-on lift, or four jack stands rated 3 tons plus a floor jack
- Oil drain pan, 6 quart capacity
- Long-neck funnel
- 10mm socket and plastic trim tool for undertray fasteners
- Nitrile gloves and shop rags
- Torque wrench that covers 60 to 200 in lbs for undertray fasteners
Parts
- Engine oil — Nissan Ester Racing Oil 0W-30 (factory fill spec), or Motul 300V Power 5W-40 (community standard for track use), or Mobil 1 Racing 4T 10W-40 for street/track hybrid duty — 5.4 US quarts (5.1 liters)
- Oil filter — Nissan 15208-31U0B (Mahle OC603, Purolator Boss PBL15436 acceptable OE equivalents)
- Drain plug crush washer — Nissan 11026-01M02
- Optional: magnetic drain plug — Fumoto F108N or equivalent for repeat services
Steps
01Warm the engine
Idle the engine for three to five minutes if starting cold, or complete a short drive and return with the engine at operating temperature. The VR38DETT holds oil in tight cooler passages and cold oil drains at a fraction of the rate of warm oil. Do not let the engine reach full track-day operating temperature before draining; oil in the 250 F range at the drain is hot enough to cause burns even through nitrile gloves.
02Lift the vehicle
The R35 sits low; a two-post or drive-on lift is preferred. If using jack stands, the OEM jack points are the reinforced sill locations marked with an arrow on the underbody. Chock the rear wheels and confirm the parking brake is off before lifting the rear (which is common for GT-R jacking sequence).
03Remove the front undertray
The front undertray retains with roughly a dozen 10mm bolts and several plastic trim clips around its perimeter. Undertray removal is required for access to both the drain plug and the filter. Set the tray flat, face down, to avoid scratching the diffuser vanes on higher trims.
04Drain the oil
Position the drain pan directly under the drain plug on the rear-passenger corner of the aluminum oil pan. Break the 14mm drain plug loose with a ratchet, then finish by hand while pressing inward. Once the threads release, pull the plug straight away. Let the oil drain for at least ten minutes. Wipe the drain boss clean, fit a new crush washer, and reinstall the plug. Torque the VR38DETT drain plug to 25 ft lbs (34 Nm). Verify against your service manual. Do not reuse the crush washer; a re-crushed washer is the most common source of a slow oil pan drip on the R35.
05Remove the oil filter
The filter mounts vertically on the front of the engine block, on the driver side, pointing down. Slide the drain pan to catch drips from the filter. Fit the filter wrench and break the canister loose. Once free, spin off by hand. Catch the residual oil and set the old filter cartridge upright in the drain pan. Wipe the mounting flange on the block clean. Confirm the old filter gasket is not stuck to the flange; a double-gasketed filter leaks catastrophically on the first hot start.
06Install the new filter
Smear a thin film of fresh oil around the new filter's rubber gasket. Thread the filter on by hand until the gasket first contacts the block, then continue for three quarters of a turn. Torque the R35 oil filter to 12 ft lbs (17 Nm). Verify against your service manual. On the OEM Nissan filter, the wrench-flat is designed for the OEM tool; hand-tight plus three quarters is the safe method with any generic wrench.
07Refill with oil
Remove the oil fill cap on the driver-side valve cover. Pour in 5.4 US quarts (5.1 liters) of the chosen oil through a long-neck funnel. Reinstall the fill cap. Start the engine and confirm the oil pressure gauge on the dash reads normal within three seconds; the R35 lights the pressure warning if oil pressure fails to build. Let the engine idle for two minutes, then shut down.
08Verify level
Wait five minutes for oil to settle back into the pan. Check the dipstick. The level should read between the upper hash and the mid-hash on a hot check; the R35 dipstick is calibrated for a hot reading, not the cold reading common on other cars.
09Reinstall undertray
Refit the front undertray with its 10mm bolts and clips. Torque the undertray bolts to 62 in lbs (7 Nm). Verify against your service manual. Lower the vehicle.
10Log the service and reset the maintenance reminder
The R35 does not use a percentage-based oil life monitor, but the multi-function display tracks a fixed mileage interval that can be manually reset through the vehicle settings menu.
Notes
Reference guide. A general procedure compiled by Wrenchpit, not a first-hand write-up from one owner's vehicle. Torque figures, capacities and part numbers vary by model year, engine and trim — check them against your service manual and the labels on your old parts before you rely on them.
Applies to roughly 2009-2021 model years. Filed under 2014 because a guide carries a single model year.
The R35 GT-R's VR38DETT 3.8L twin-turbo V6 is famously sensitive to oil quality and change interval. Nissan's official interval is 3,750 miles for the first two years and 7,500 miles after that on the base recommendation, but the community consensus (GT-R Life, GT-Rregistry, R35Talk, NAGTROC) is 3,500 miles for any car that sees launches or track duty, and no more than 5,000 miles for any daily driver. The factory-fill Nissan Ester oil is expensive and hard to source outside dealers; Motul 300V is the most popular aftermarket choice for track use, and it flows well cold and holds shear at Nurburgring temperatures. Do not use conventional or synthetic-blend oils; the VR38DETT's rod bearings live on the film strength of a true full-synthetic ester or PAO base, and a bearing failure at this level of build cost is not recoverable. Cross-reference the current Nissan oil specification bulletin; the recommended fluid has been superseded twice across the R35 production run. Buy filters direct from a Nissan dealer or a verified parts distributor; the 15208-31U0B is a common counterfeit target and fake filters have caused documented pressure loss events on GT-R forums. Any launch-control-enabled car benefits from a magnetic drain plug; the debris it captures over the first few services is a real data point on the transmission and engine health of a launched R35.
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